![]() ![]() The retainers were cut to fit under the plexiglass clear piece. The Ryobi bottom piece had the screw lugs and a small piece of the retainer frame cut using an oscillating multitool. This is my first time posting pictures so I do not know how they will import. I made a few mods to the original poster's setup. I finally got around to making a couple of Ryobi/Ridgid adapters. This part is the battery connector and switch for the 18V flashlight. The first thing that I did was to order part 270015155 from a Ridgid parts dealer. That looked more half-assed to me than the longer adapter. I've seen guys that have forgone the latches and just used velcro to hold the adapter and pack on the base of the other tool. I would've needed to completely re-engineer the springs in order to make the adapter shorter. The springs for these lock pieces go all the way to the bottom of the pack. The reason it isn't is that Ryobi uses side spring latches to hold the pack in. I don't like the hacked together look it provides.ĥ. I did not want to modify the actual tool, nor the actual battery. Your charger should always be matched to your battery.Ĥ. Lithium cells are pretty specific to charge rates and voltages. This adapter should never be used for charging. ![]() You can probably put the protection circuitry from a donor tool or battery in your adapter but I haven't actually tried this as I have no need to.ģ. The tool will work but it will completely discharge your battery and likely prevent it from ever recharging. Do not make an adapter to run a nonprotected battery (Dewalt for example) in a nonprotected tool like a Ryobi. Some manufacturers have chosen to put the protection in the batteries like Ridgid and Ryobi while others have chosen to put it in the tool like Dewalt. Lithium batteries must be protected from fully discharging. If you are interested in doing something like this and plan to use lithium packs make sure you are aware of the discharge protection circuitry. Just buy the Ryobi batteries which are cheap enough and decent quality.Ģ. If you are fine with having multiple types of batteries and chargers, this project is not for you. YOU are the circuitry between the tool and the battery and you need to make sure you aren’t killing either or going to burn down your shop.1. You can do what you are asking, but you need to be careful. ![]() Dewalt doesn’t want to trust that Ryobi is going to do the monitoring correctly and doesn’t want to be responsible when somebody smokes their tools or batteries. This is why there is no battery standard. Some low draw tools don’t even listen to the battery because they can’t draw enough current to damage it. What does happen is the battery has electronics inside the cell, anything from a thermistor to a microprocessor monitoring all the cells that will communicate with only that brands tools and tell the tool to stop running if there is a problem. You can basially arc weld with the batteries and they will keep giving current until you either melt down the li-ion cells or melt through the wires or contacts. There is no battery that I know of that doesn’t connect the cells directly to the terminals – except for Flexvolt which has a mechanical selector switch for 20V or 60V. (And even in that case, you might confuse the coulomb-counter in the board, if present. Of course do NOT use these adapters for charging! Always use the native charger, unless you have your own balance charger and know exactly what you’re doing. It’s still prudent not to run something all the way until it stops – when you hear the tool slowing down, stop right there and recharge the battery! (The 12’s not so much!), and of course the NiCd don’t care what you do, so I consider it safe to intermix every which way. I believe all the 18v lithium batteries have a protection board in 'em. I’ve gutted the cheap Ryobi battery-cap chargers (the P111 and there’s one other whose number I don’t know) and the P150 battery-gauge, to bring out the power contacts to run stuff like my TS100 soldering iron, a series of LED lights, and yes, another gutted DeWalt 18v battery so we could run my buddy’s DeWalt radio off my spare Ryobi batteries. It moved the center of gravity back a bit too, which was welcome on an otherwise-nose-heavy tool. I made a simple adapter by chopping up a scrap Ryobi flashlight to get the battery socket, and grafting it into a gutted Black&Decker battery, to allow my dad’s B&D weedwacker to run from his Ryobi batteries. All the parts are on Thingiverse, just gotta combine 'em and print one… I wish SOMEone would make an adapter to use Ridgid 18v slide batteries on Ryobi post tools. Of course these work in other Ryobi 18v tools, too. Surebonder makes a hot-glue gun that takes Ryobi 18v post batteries, and then they make adapters for Makita and Milwaukee batteries to fit their glue guns. ![]()
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